Death Inc

I've connected everything I can, in their right place, except this IDE thing, it goes in one place and my motherboard doesn't seem to have anywhere else for it to go.

if I got the name wrong, it's the widest cable (or cables) there is.

I also turned the PSU on and everything and the led on the front came on, I thought I have succeeded except when I pressed it the computer didn't turn on :/

can someone help? I'm gonna look for a few guides now (I looked at the motherboard manual and it has nothing about it, peice of shit)

whats the IDE for - if you say HDD - go buy a new sata drive

and did you connect the PWR switch etc from the case to the mobo

 ???


What motherboard do you have? Do you even have a motherboard that has onboard IDE? Some new boards only have SATA....

How are you plugging in your cable, one end of the cable goes into the drive, one end goes into the motherboard, if your cable has 3 connectors on it then you can plug in a second drive although this is optional.

As for power, have you connected everything properly including the front panel switch as damit said? All power connectors are plugged into the motherboard? Most motherboard have more than one power connecter these days. Are your fans spinning? You haven't shorted out the board on the case or anything?

....Why didn't you just pay someone to build it?  ಠ_ಠ

yes I did damit, also, you mean that I don't have to use this fuckin wide thing? I've already connected the HDD to the SATA port.

now I've just removed it, my mobo is a Gigabyte 880GM-UD2H (AM3 socket). And I didn't pay someone because I want to learn myself and I spent all my money on the parts themselves! maybe after christmas I can afford to pay someone, I just want to know myself, I'm reading a rather patronising guide that gives me shit all advice with this part.
the guide says "my motherboard manual will have a detailed diagram on where to attatch these". my ass it does.

ok pay someone now or you will waste all the money you spent on it

BUT WHAT DID I DO WRONG?!?!?

jump in TS and bohica will help

......... in TS buddy

the computer I'm on doesn't have TS :(

I'll DL it but I have no mic here :(

*edit* there's a thing that connects right next to where the PSU connects to the mobo (there's 4 empty holes left) but the thing that connects has a small plastic side thing blocking it from going in properly, could that be the problem?

no worries got about 30 minutes before i have to go to the outlaws

OK if you have a SATA hard drive, you only need to plug in the thin SATA cable and the slightly wider power cable. They are keyed to only go in one way. You DO NOT use the wide IDE ribbon cable, unless you have an IDE hard disk or optical drive. They will have a socket that obviously fits the cable.

Is this your motherboard?
http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3475#ov

You do have an IDE port on the board.
As for power, notice the wide main power plug near the RAM slots near the edge of the board, and also the smaller 8 pin power socket near the ports on the edge of the board. Both of these need to be plugged in. Failing that you need to check the front panel switches and lights are connected correctly.



Seriously dude, it's all well and good to want to learn but you need to do it on hardware you can afford to replace if you break. You've already killed a CPU and at this rate you will kill something else before long.

You never answered when I asked about static discharge either, you could be destroying components without even realising it

I have about the same time to get ready for an xmas party...

anyway, could that be the problem? my source of logic says yes

Donut, I've made fairly sure that I discharged all static electricity I had, but I still think this other thing being blocked could be the biggest source, and yes that's my mobo

besides, I got a guy to install the processor (a new one) properly so it's all good, in that end

Nah keep pushing ahead mate, my first computer build was like this, once you've done one or two its a cake walk.

My first time I thought the PSU was faulty, turned out I had it incorrectly connected up and walked back red-faced from the computer shop as they tested it and it indeed worked.
Also managed to fuck up the headers, luckily my grandfather knew a thing or two about computers and realized I had got the polarity wrong.
And finally it worked :D

Moral of the story, keep trying and you'll eventually get something right! Just try not to break anything else :P Computers are just like lego, albeit very expensive lego that you don't want to snap.

Can you get us some high-res pic's of what you have installed currently and how its connected??

Yes you need to remove those and plug the extra 4 pins into the motherboard.


Do you see the problem here :o

It's not gonig to end well and some poor tech will be left to pick up the pieces


sorry to sound so negative but I've seen this SO MANY TIMES...


'hurf durf I can builds computar machine'

*has no idea what they are doing, colossal fuck up*

'oh noes I broked it woe is me fml'

ok, I'm gonna figure out a way to get rid of these things (my idea is to get a knife or similar tool and cut it, should work) I think after that all should be good

and donut, the peices arent that big so the tech guy wont have trouble seeing them :)

did you mean something else? :D

btw I'm be heading off for an xmas party soon, thanks for the help so far

Don't cut anything :o

As soon as you cut it you can kiss your warranty goodbye

what the hell man... it should just come out... post a picture of the thing you are talking about

it doesn't come out, it's essentially part of the plastic.

I can't take a proper pic that I can put on a computer but it looks like this

  *wires*
________
  |      |
  |      |
  |      |
*connecting part*

Have a look at the attachment

ftp://download.gigabyte.ru/manual/mb_manual_ga-880gm-ud2h(us2h)_v1.4_e.pdf

what page is the picture on????

Yeah don't cut anything..

Golden rule: If it doesn't look like it fits then it probably doesn't so don't try force it in or cut it too make it fit in.

If you could get some pic's, even half-decent ones off a recent mobile phone then that would help a lot.

Is this on the power supply or the motherboard?

nothing comes up when I click on there except that the page is can't be displayed

and vert, my phones old and I can't send pics to comptuers (and my credit will be gone trying through mobile)

it's on the psu, it connects to the mobo

(http://www.plinkusa.net/products/ps575bk_2.jpg)

which one??

the first one

top left?

it is the 24 pin connector for the main power on your maotherboard, it will plug in and only go one way next to the 20 pin

Yeah its the 24 pin ATX connector, which often comes with the extra 4 pins blanked out - but usually with a small plug that can be easily pulled out. I've never seen one that had the plug moulded to blank off the connector, requiring any sort of cutting or puncturing.


I hope you haven't plugged it in offset by 4 pins with the extra connector on the wrong side, because you can say goodbye to your motherboard if you have

yes it is, I know but I've tried all ways and they're all blocked by this asshole thing.

and donut, the motherfucker is moulded.

What PSU do you have

Did you end up buying the thermaltake V3 with PSU? I got two of these at home so I can have a look at the PSU for you..

yeah, I got the thermaltake case and PSU, check it out please

and donut, it's a 450 watt PSU that comes with a Thermaltake V3 case

(http://www.orpheuscomputing.com/images2/RP-600-PCAR_20+4_pin.jpg)

You need to unplug both the 20 + the 4 connectors

if you closely, the are keyed to only goin one way
Pin 1 is towards you sata connectors and pin 20-24 are towards the top of you board, neasr the dual bios label

Is this your power supply

http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1247&ID=1534#Tab0

Q:     The power supply shows a 24 (20+4) pin ATX power connector.  But the motherboard I have only has 20 pin connector, will it still work?
A:     Yes, the 20+4 pin ATX power connector design allows the extra 4pin to be removed before connecting to a 20pin motherboard.  The new 24pin ATX power connecter found on today’s PC power supply is part of the new ATX specification (ATX12V 2.0 and above) which is necessary in order to support Intel’s current generation of processor architecture and other technological advances.

ok ok, I can do this, I just have to cut the plastic thing around the wires so they cna be a little more free to move. (I'm not cutting the insulators, I'm cutting a plastic thing some people use in gardening, the bastards fairly tight though

Donut, my mobo has a 24 pin connector

Karnage, do not cut the cable tie....
 

If you are plugging it in the right way, there is not need to adjust the cable tie

wtf man


You really need to get some pics or you are going to wreck something

I've read through the PSU manual and I ca'nt see anything that indicates you need to cut anything at all.

alright, according to my logic, all should be good now

there's a mesh tube surrounding the wires anyway, I've plugged it in properly and will test it


pray it wont explode in my face

past prayin.... >:(

SON OF A BITCH!

the same thing happened :(

(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/Cronaroth/nuclear-explosion.gif)

Keep in mind the 24-pin cable is fairly short and I had to really stretch it to get it in when I did my brothers 2 builds with this case + PSU. DO NOT cut the mesh, that won't do anything!

So you managed to get the 20-pin and 4-pin connectors in? Did you remember to get the little plastic nib on the side of the 4-pin connector underneath the 20-pin connector so that its held in place?

what, is it beeping?
when you turn it on does the cpu fan spin and stay spinning?

turn off, unplug memory, turn on does it beep?

yes I did vert, I didn't cut the mesh and I know that wouldn't do anything, I have an understanding of most electronics (the basics anyway) and I know cutting mesh around a wire will change nothing.

and yep, it's held in place.

Donut....you're an asshole :P

bohica, I'll try that now, but by memory, you mean RAM right?

do you have a manual for this board?

yes I do and it tells me fuck all

is it the quick guide or the manual?

http://www.gigabyte.com.au/support-downloads/download-center.aspx?kw=880GM-UD2H+

"Multilingual Istallation Guidebook"

104 pages ???

Karnage have you also plugged in the 8 pin power connector on the motherboard


Me reading this thread: (http://i.imgur.com/yQXc4.gif)

Wait so when you press power, the power LED lights up but nothing else happens?

yep, and when I press the on button it does nothing. the "Power SW" plug for the case is plugged in right next to the "PWR LED" plug

and yes I also plugged the 8-pin connector.

*edit* and bohica, I took out the ram and trie dit and it's the same story

Mhmmk I had the same problem, take out the Power Led and leave it out. Reason being its a three-pin connector when it should only be two-pin and the middle pin is blank, using up another pin when it shouldn't.

Meaning that the power switch header is only plugged halfway or one of the pins is in the wrong slot.

and you do have the power switch connector into pin 6&8 what color is the wires for you powerswitch

Look at the front panel diagram in your manual. For revision 1.4 of that board, the power switch is NOT next to the power LED.

The front panel connector has both available either two pin in position 2&4 or a three pin in 15&17&19

LOL at this :D

OK I just checked all 3 revisions of that board, (whats the old saying about leading horses to water?) the manuals I downloaded all said that the connector next to the power LED is the chassis intrusion header, NOT the power switch.

So I'm betting you have connected the front panel headers incorrectly

(http://img.misco.eu/resources/images/products//106/GIG/G/A/-/8/8/0/G/M/-/U/D/2/H/GA-880GM-UD2H/GA-880GM-UD2H_2_1600x1600.jpg)

so if you look at this picture plug your power switch into the red pins6&8

My head just exploded cuz i'd be trying to plug it into the big round black thing...that kinda looks like a power plug so I'd be heading there 1st stop :D




This may also help

(http://www.cybermarket.co.uk/ishop/images/923/853-501.jpg)

(http://shop.pinbax.com/items/super-glue.jpg)

(http://www.archimage.co.uk/Images/Industrial/Welder_03.jpg)

(http://www.gaj-it.com/wp-content/uploads/nuke.jpg)

You mean the battery?

(http://i56.tinypic.com/125lwed.gif)

DC + AC voltage = ACDC voltage!  Computers rock that shit yo.

And yeah I agree with donut, somethings frucked with the headers..

Last comment on this post...


RFM !!!!!

See...how good am I?.............Its a source of power and thus relevant :D

He did and he said it didn't tell him shit
Which, frankly, only serves to strenghten my position that he should be paying someone to do this for him

I'm sure we haven't heard the last of this....

 ??? OMG  :o the frigging manual would of got him through it all!!!!!!!

karnage dude slow down and read it!!! the more you hurry things the worse it is going to get mate

now read this http://download.gigabyte.ru/manual/mb_manual_ga-880gm-ud2h_e.pdf (http://download.gigabyte.ru/manual/mb_manual_ga-880gm-ud2h_e.pdf)

now on page 23 gives the connector layout read it
24 gives the power connector layout ( clip on the power connector goes on the right side according to diagram)
25 gives the connectors where the fans are connected - make sure the CPU can is connected
27 gives the connectors to the case and where they should all go - make sure they all match

now if it still does not work try this
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/9194446/funny/3b4bb648-cfbb-4df4-9833-24b6ab3e66e2.jpg)
but dont stuff it up or this
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/9194446/funny/gates_of_hell.jpg)
will happen

He's good...nobody else thought of re-routing the tachyon flow +1

That's because its bullshit. It doesn't even make sense.

The correct terminology is 'reverse the polarity of the neutron flow'

(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/0/07/Third_Doctor.jpg)


also, that is like the 4th time in this thread he's been linked to a download for the manual. In addition to the paper copy he would have received with the board.


Seriously karnage... we can pull your pants down, we can point you downwind, but we can't piss for you

i thought if i mentioned it again he might actually read it instead of looking at the pictures

i am almost at the point of saying go and get a mac
there is almost no way of him fucking it up

This thread is funny as shit, honestly Karnage how old are you man and what IQ did they stamp on your forehead when you graduated from the special school, assuming you are old enough to have graduated.

Read your manual and do as it says.  Motherboard manual, combined with case manual, combined with CPU manual will lead you through the whole install from start to finish.

PS: we should really consider moving this thread to the Funny/Spam board

This thread (in its entirety) appeared to me this afternoon. 5 pages is too long. Can someone give me the gist of it?

..what the hell is all that? my manual has about 3 pages of english and it goes to another language!

also chal, i tried that acdc thing in a science class once. I don't think I have to tell you it was a bad idea.


thanks for the help, seeing as how its christmas eve and all

so what this has lead me to is either

A: remove the power LED

B: fix up the USB and other front stuff

C: rock on with ACDC.

I think it might be the front USB and other things I've connected, I'll try the LED thing though

also alucard, I can accept that challenge :P

Mone, I have actually had a proper IQ test and my result is 104, which is average. what is yours?

wow. this thread is epic.
Karnage, you need to get a few more brain cells mate.... Let the glue sniff you, instead of sniffing it...

I showed this to my dad, and we both had a good eye rolling over it.
Merry christmas!

provide a way to fix this (that isnt getting a professional) or I render you as stupid as I.

well, I've done LED thing and it's the same story, USB and front connectors as well and nothing.

I think the most likely thing is I've either damaged something through static (even though I could swear I discharged every time) or the PSU is fucked. I might, just might, either get a professional to do it or more likely take the PSU back

I got a way to fix this, go and get your 8 year old brother or sister, put them in front of your keyboard and we will talk them through fixing this as it is clear the problem is with you and no one else.

fuck it, I'm gonna get someone else to do it.

but next time I try something like this it's gonna work! I swear it. even if I have to make it nuclear powered THE FUCKERS GONNA WORK!
and when that day comes I'm gonna be marching down the street with fireworks inside bagpipes, just you watch! (note: whether or not I obtain either bagpipes or fireworks is a differant story. but it'll happen)

merry christmas to all btw

please for the sake of humanity stay away from anything nuclear

I've got a breif understanding of physics to be safe with it, I gave some stuff to my korean mate and he's never stopped thanking me saying "it's so generous just in-case"

he's never told me what it's for though :(

  :) :D ;D ;) 8) :-* :PDT_Armataz_01_24: :PDT_Armataz_01_14: :PDT_Armataz_01_29: :PDT_Armataz_01_12: :PDT_Armataz_01_06: :PDT_Armataz_01_13: :PDT_Armataz_01_13: :PDT_Armataz_01_13:

Huston We have finally got through!!!

And Marry Christmas!!

Karnage have you in fact confirmed that you have plugged the front power button into the correct place on the motherboard?

If you think the power supply is stuffed you can test it easily by shorting the green wire on the atx connector to ground and observing if the fans in the PSU spin up. I'm not going to give a detailed explanation though because as you yourself have realised this is best left to a professional :) I'm guessing your PSU is fine and the fault is elsewhere.



That's a bit of a copout dude, you've been asked several times to provide photos of the parts you are having trouble with and you have only provided vague verbal descriptions. You've had multiple IT professionals in this thread trying to provide assistance and you've managed to confuse the lot of us.

You should have pulled an old computer apart before attempting to build an expensive new one. I've got nothing against people who want to learn but really you started at the absolutely worst possible place thus my reccomendation to get this built professionally.

Hey bro sorry for the late reply. I hope all is well too an merry Xmas :). Hey did you you do a preliminary test and just grab the mb ram CPU and power and run it up on a desk without the case an other stuff.

If you need the video card add that too. can't see your mb yet as 3G here is slow an isn't loading pics to my phone :(

If the bare essentials work outside the case go an add stuff / build it up.

But after reading everything here, you may be too far gone and may need help to right whatever problem has occurred.

Chin up as the boys here are always here to help. Well except for chalice as he is a expert with goats not pcs :)

Merry Christmas bud

Bohicas pic loaded ( finally ) the mb has on board bid so try a bare bones run up on a desk maybe to see if that works.

merry christmas to all, I'm getting a professional to do it and gonna learn starcraft II, maybe attempting to beat the race that saves my computer will be good for me.

Karnage I felt sorry for you since your heart was in the right place, but you just weren't prepared properly. So to give you a hand I took some pics of a pc I built today maybe you will find it interesting :)

Firstly, here's the motherboard and its manual. The manual is FULL of info you will need such as jumper settings and header pinouts.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/dk486/386dx40/IMG_0323-1024.jpg)


When I get a brand new motherboard I like to run it outside the case to make sure everything is working before going through all the effort of mounting it. Its also easier to install CPU, RAM etc outside the case. Just place it on top of the bag it came in, being very careful not to let anything touch it while its running.

The bare minimum you need for a system to boot is a CPU, memory, power supply and video card. Obviously you should also connect the speaker to the motherboard because if the system has a problem it will beep at you, and you can check the beep codes to determine the fault. Keyboard is handy also in case its all working and you want to go into the BIOS or whatever.

If you get stuff come up on screen you know that these parts are fine so if you have trouble further down the track you can rule them out. If you continue to have issues you can go back to this baseline until the system starts booting again.

Anyway, first you should install the CPU. Some people have SMP systems with multiple CPU's, or co-processors. You probably won't need to worry about that though. Here you can see I've chosen an AMD CPU as I think they offer better value for money at the moment.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/dk486/386dx40/IMG_0328-1024.jpg)

Be careful to make sure the pins line up correctly, usually there is a marking or some sort of keying that prevents the CPU being inserted incorrectly. At this point, you should install the heatsink if necessary - fortunately, this system does not require any extra cooling :)

At this point you should set any jumpers on the motherboard pertaining to CPU settings if necessary - check your manual for these details. If your jumpers are not set correctly you could be overclocking or overvolting your CPU without knowing it and cause damage - if it boots at all.

Now you should install your RAM. Some systems use multi-channel RAM, so be careful to install the correct number of modules in the correct slots. This system needs four identical modules installed in each bank to work correctly.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/dk486/386dx40/IMG_0330-1024.jpg)

Now you can whack in a video card. One could write a novel on the subject of AMD versus nVidia however I have gone one better and used a Tseng Laboratories card - an ET4000AX. It doesn't support DirectX but it does have excellent VESA support.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/dk486/386dx40/IMG_0338-1024.jpg)

At this point you can plug in a speaker and the power supply. If you have two similar connectors that go side-by-side on the motherboard, the rule is the black wires go together. Plugging these in backwards will let the magical smoke out of the board.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/dk486/386dx40/IMG_0331-1024.jpg)

At this point you can apply the power and see if its working :) Note that if you have a power switch attached to the PSU it has mains voltage going through it so its best to avoid touching them with your bare hands - just plug/unplug the PSU to switch it on/off until you get it in a case. Some newer, less interesting systems have 'soft power' where the power switch is connected to a header on the motherboard, and has much lower, safer voltage going through it. You can start the system by touching the power switch headers on the motherboard with a screwdriver. Check your manual for the correct headers; touching the wrong place with a screwdriver while power is applied may cause varying results.

Success!
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/dk486/386dx40/IMG_0332-1024.jpg)

At this point you should check that the battery on the motherboard is still good; if the system reports 'CMOS CHECKSUM ERROR' or keeps forgetting the date after each reboot you will need to replace the battery. Here you can see that I have desoldered the dead battery from the board and will fit a new external battery. Some boards have button cell batteries which can be replaced without soldering; these boards are boring and should be avoided.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/dk486/386dx40/IMG_0334-1024.jpg)

Now that we have ascertained the motherboard, cpu and RAM are functional we can prepare the case. You will need to screw standoffs into the correct location in the case, to line up with the holes in the motherboard. If you leave a standoff in the wrong place it may short out the board, so double check before you start screwing the board in. Here you can see I have used both copper and plastic standoffs.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/dk486/386dx40/IMG_0335-1024.jpg)

At this point you can fit the motherboard into the case, be sure to screw it in properly and hat it is not shorting out on the case.

I took this opportunity to install some additional SRAM on my motherboard. A lot of motherboards come with onboard SRAM cache memory to enhance performance. This memory is several times faster than main memory although is much miore expensive and thus there is usually much less of it. This board only had 128kb of cache memory so I installed an additional 128kb to give 256kb total:

(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/dk486/386dx40/IMG_0337-1024.jpg)

Once that is done you can begin fitting the front panel connectors - check your manual for information as this varies between different boards.
Also, if your case has a digital speed display for turbo mode you can set the jumpers to change what it displays. Often they are set to HI and LO by default but you can set them to whatever you like, people often like to set them to the clockspeed of the CPU. Mine was set to HI in turbo mode however this was entirely too friendly like some sort of computer greeting (I don't want people to think they are welcome in my house) so I have set mine to say 40 (for 40MHZ :) )
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/dk486/386dx40/IMG_0340-1024.jpg)

Let's hit the pwoer and see if everything is happy:
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/dk486/386dx40/IMG_0342-1024.jpg)
Yep! :D Extra cache is working perfectly.

Now its time to install some disk drives. A lot of motherboards are coming out now with onboard serial, floppy and IDE ports. This system doesn't have any of those so instead we will install a controller card that will take care of all that for us:
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/dk486/386dx40/IMG_0343-1024.jpg)
Again, take care to ensure all the jumpers are set correctly to enable/disable certain ports, and set the memory I/O address ranges and IRQ's. Check your manual for details. Thankfully, this card had the settings printed on the card itself which makes things a bit easier.

Anyway, whack that in and start installing your drives. Remember, the red wire on the ribbon cable is pin 1 and should be marked on the drive. The drive won't work if you get it backwards. Usually pin 1 is on the side closest to the power connector on the drive although some floppy drives are different. Also when installing floppies the end of the cable with the twist in the middle should be connected to drive A, any drive connected between the board and the twist will be drive B.

(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/dk486/386dx40/IMG_0351-1024.jpg)

Fire it up and make sure all your drives are working properly. You will need to set your drives up in the BIOS setup, some of the more mundane motherboards will autodetect your hard drive but for real systems like this you will need to enter the cylinders/head/sectors information for your hard drive before it will work.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/dk486/386dx40/IMG_0355-1024.jpg)


If all is working you can shut down and finish installing any other expansion cards you may have. I only have one other card, a sound card. There are a couple of different sound cards on the market these days but in my opinion Creative make the best ones, so I have installed a Sound Blaster Pro. This card also includes a Sony CDROM controller which will allow me to install a double-speed Sony CDROM. Apparently you can get CD-ROM drives that run off the IDE interface like a hard drive although that sounds pretty lame to me.

(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/dk486/386dx40/IMG_0353-1024.jpg)

Now your machine should be physically together, and ready for you to install an operating system. Congratulations! the hard part is over, now you just have to stick a disk in and wait for it to install.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/dk486/386dx40/IMG_0357-1024.jpg)

Now you can sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labour :)

(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/dk486/386dx40/IMG_0360-1024.jpg)

wow i can remember doing some of that when i was a kid (mostly putting putting the Hardware together and not adding anything via solder though)

i dont think i ever installed dos - i have though installed win 98 a heap of times - i liked seeing if i could get mods working  :PDT_Armataz_01_14: :PDT_Armataz_01_12:

shit, that might have been one of (or the) mistakes I made when doing mine, the mobo only came with 2 risers so I had to put mine in the places I thought they'd be most useful.

also, wtf is an expansion card? this seems harder than I thought, I'm just gonna leave it to the professional this time, and maybe if there's a DI meet in melbourne I can go to I'll bring along some stuff

(note: stuff I bring may or may not be smoking or on fire)

if you were serious ... face palm  :PDT_Armataz_01_08: :o ???

2 risers? wtf you should have a ton of those either with the mb or case

Yeah, every case I've bought had about a dozen risers.

The Thermaltake V3 has most of its risers built into actual cases motherboard tray.

http://www.thinkcomputers.org/reviews/tt_v3_black/17.jpg

They're little black raised bits of metal.. with a threaded hole for a screw if you missed them karnage ;)

I thought they were also part of the case so therefore I shouldn't put the case directly on there. fuck it, my guys gonna do it and that'll be the end of this.

and yes, i only got 2 risers. only two, I went through the entire packet that came with my mobo (case came with none) and there were only two.